Chemicals in skin care products

Many people have become uneasy about synthetic chemicals, potential toxins and probable carcinogens found in skin care and cosmetic products due to all the recent hype. Everyone is going “green”, “organic” or “natural”. And, I have discovered in my research with the different products and companies going “green” has its good points and bad points.
We all want to incorporate habits that support our wellness. To change the products we use on our bodies seems to be a simple modification that goes along in support of a healthier lifestyle. Going green has the added benefit of the weight lifted from our conscious as we wash the non-toxic cleansers, shampoo, conditioners and everything else down the drain and into our environment.
I’m all for doing things that support skin health. The products carried at Face Value are selected because they are free of color additives, synthetic fragrances, harsh alcohols, comedogenic oils and other known sensitizers. The chemical exfoliants are non-toxic, light to medium depth peels. The treatments are designed to achieve results while avoiding irritation and have proven to help effectively treat varied skin conditions, concerns and imperfections like scars, blemishes, discoloration, and the multiple signs aging.
Sulfates and parabens have been a red flag for many of my clients. The sulfates, (commonly found in cleansers), in the products at Face Value are derived from palm or coconut oil. Not all of the cleansers have sulfates.
The parabens in some of the products are minimal and are incorporated for the health and safety of the consumer. According to the Skin Care and Cosmetics Ingredients Dictionary the range of paraben concentrations used in cosmetics range between 0.03%-0.30%. Parabens have safely been used in cosmetics since the 1930’s. Skin care products that do not contain preservatives generally have a maximum shelf life of a year. To use a rancid product could do much harm to the skin and the body. Do you know how long your newly purchased product was in the hands of the manufacturer, or kept in stock, or has been sitting on the display shelf before you purchased it? Most products at Face Value have a “made on date” stamped on the product’s container and stock is kept to a minimum for quicker turnover.
Some interesting things to keep in mind:
- In Californina, a product can be labeled “organic” if it contains 78% organic ingredients.
- “Natural” is not always good for you. Water and sunlight are “natural” sources and yet excessive consumption or exposure would be harmful.
- Speaking of water…I have found this to be the root of many skin problems due to the disinfecting agent that is now being used, chloramine. This agent will kill fish, reptiles and amphibians if you put them in the tap water without first “treating” it. It has also been shown to cause cancer. And, ironically, this water is all being flushed and drained into our bays and environment!
I have seen many clients who have dry, red, itchy, scaly red patches on the face and body, (frustratingly explained away and brushed aside by doctors and dermatologists as just being a skin allergy, atopic dermatitis, or eczema with no true identification or diagnosis as to the underlying cause)…my son included. Once we installed a whole-house water filtration system and softener my son’s skin cleared within a week. Don’t you wonder, how many skin care products contain the “natural” ingredient water and what is its source?

Again, I do think there are health benefits to going organic. Especially when it comes to the foods and beverages we eat and drink…free of hormones, pesticides, bio-engineered chemicals and artificial ingredients that have all been proven to do more harm than good when ingested.
When it comes to skin care there are very few ingredients that are able to penetrate the skin and enter into the bloodstream, (unless it is a prescription topical). Studies done on the more recent controversial skin care ingredients are usually forced upon or into animal subjects at ridiculous quantities.
You must weigh the benefits the products provide, (i.e. protection against environmental stress, damage free radicals and pollution), with its ability to do real bodily harm. And, don’t fall prey to thinking that skin care products termed “organic” can’t create skin problems.

Facial Hair

Fine dark hairs on the face can actually make you appear a little older than you really are.
My recommendation would be to eliminate any hair making its appearance on the upper lip and keep the eyebrows neatly shaped.
For any chemical applications such as facial hair bleach or depilatories like Nair or Veet be sure to do a patch test as directed beforehand to prevent redness, rashes and swelling from occurring on the face.
I'm not a big advocate for chemical depilatories. The use of facial hair bleach, (Jolen or Sally Hansen for sensitive skin types are good brands to try), is a great way to lighten "peach fuzz" around the lips, on the cheeks, chin and forehead. Post-bleaching leaves the skin a bit pink but once that subsides both the skin and hair have a nice lightened and brightened appearance.
Waxing or threading are quicker ways to temporarily eliminate facial hair than tweezing. Both are minimally uncomfortable and may leave you a bit pink for up to a few hours, (you can conceal this with a light application of mineral make-up). If you are prone to breakouts post-waxing or threading I would recommend requesting that your esthetician use something to act as a barrier between the skin and wax, (like powder or numbing spray), and finish using the high frequency machine, (as long as there are no contraindications), to help minimize both redness and acne causing bacteria.
If you are super sensitive or can't tolerate the discomfort that accompanies the hair removal methods listed above then I would recommend a handy little tool by Finishing Touch. This pen-like razor quickly and painlessly shaves the hair and is a great fix for those last minute emergencies. And, unless the hair is thick and coarse to begin with, it will not cause the hair to grow back stubbly.

Don't let these give away your age!

Hands, neck, decollete and the eye area are the culprits that most reveal our age! Be sure to take special care of all of these areas when you perform your daily skin care regimen.
Simply incorporating your neck and decollete when treating your face is easy to do. Just extend cleansing, apply nourishing serums and your nighttime moisturizer or daily sunblockto these two delicate areas. Ask your esthetician to pay attention to these areas, too, during your facial treatment. Recommendations for a more customized therapy and at-home care may be suggested if you are wanting to get more aggressive with results.
Be sure to use an eye cream specially formulated to treat this fragile zone. Look for products that hydrate, protect and slow the signs of aging. Pamper this area morning and night.
If you have an enzymatic exfoliating facial mask use a little on the cuticles to prevent "peeling" and overgrowth. Simply rub a sesame seed size amount into each tip. Follow with an application of olive oil to cuticles and seal with a hand cream. Wear socks over your hands to help the treatment to penetrate. Do this twice a week and you'll see and feel a difference. In the day be sure to wear sunblock to prevent age spots from making an appearance.
A little daily effort creates great long-term results!

Photodamage

Just a few things to keep in mind when having your fun in the sun!

- UVA; aging rays
- UVB; burning rays
- If you're going to be outdoors be sure to apply a sunscreen with an SPF rating of 30 or more
- Physical blocks are best; titanium dioxide or zinc oxide -acts like a mirror and deflects sun's rays
- Chemical sunscreens are controversial because of potential toxicity; "absorbs" sun's rays and disperses energy as heat
- The higher the elevation the more intense the sun's rays
- Car windows do not block UVA, only UVB
- Wear sunglasses to protect your peepers!
- Antioxidants (both applied topically and taken internally) help to reduce damaging effects of the sun
- Protect your lips with a chapstick or balm that includes sunscreen
- Many skincare professionals are utilizing the Glogau scale to assess photodamage and decide the best method of treatment or skincare products to incorporate into home-care regimen.

The Glogau Scale
Skin type 1, Mild photoaging
Age (years) Early 20s or 30s
Findings: early pigmentary changes, no keratoses, fine wrinkles

Skin type 2, Moderate photoaging
Age (years) 30s to 40s
Findings: early senile lentigines, no visible keratoses.

Skin type 3, Advanced photoaging
Age (years) 50 plus
Findings: dyschromia and telangiectasia, visible keratoses, wrinkles at rest

Skin type 4, Severe photoaging
Age (years) 60s or 70s
Findings: dynamic and gravitational wrinkling, multiple actinic keratoses.

Suggested therapies based on the Glogau wrinkle scale are as follows:
Type 1
Education, sunscreen, topical antioxidants, tretinoin, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) lotions and superficial peels, microdermabrasion, Botox, photorejuvenation treatments (laser, LED, intense pulsed light)

Type 2
(see Type 1) and/ or combined with medium depth peels (trichloroacetic acid [TCA]), Botox, fillers (collagen, hyaluronic acid), photorejuvenation treatments (laser, intense pulsed light), eye/ brow lift

Type 3
(see Type 2) and/ or combined with minimally invasive neck/ eye/ brow/ face lift and/ or laser
Type 4
(see Type 3) and/ or combined with surgical face-lift